We love to push the envelope when we’re at the vise, and like most fly tyers we’re always on the search for the next big fly pattern. However, today we’re taking a step back to pay tribute to one of the most versatile patterns of all time – The Clouser Minnow.
Originally designed for smallmouth bass in the late 80’s, the Clouser Minnow has caught fish all over the world in both fresh and salt water. In fact, we fish Clouser variations all the time for bonefish at Andros South.
However, one place they really shine is on our huge run of silver salmon at Alaska West. Our guests are often surprised to learn that when targeting coho many of our guides will choose a simple pink Clouser Minnow over many other commercial salmon patterns! They work really, really well on our river, so today we thought we’d show you the finer points of tying them.
Clouser Deep Minnow – Tying Instructions
Although the Clouser Minnow is generally regarded as a simple pattern to tie, many tyers don’t utilize some of the original techniques used by Bob Clouser himself. Check out the step by step below for some tips on tying better looking Clousers.
Materials:
- Hook: Daiichi 2141, sz. 2
- Thread: UTC 140 Denier, White and Cerise
- Eyes: Large Painted Lead Eyes, Pearl White
- Tail/Body: White Bucktail
- Wing: Hot Pink Bucktail
- Flash: UV Pearl Krystal Flash
Mark B. says
Absolutely spot on. The Clouser Minnow is a deadly silver salmon pattern in any stream, but is especially useful in the salt, inter-tidal, and brackish waters like those around Kodiak Island. Pink/White, Chartreuse/White, and Tutti Frutti (Pink/Chartreuse) are all hot color combos. Swing them or strip them steadily with a slight pause once in a while and be ready for some serious hook-ups.
Willi says
I have caught some of my biggest Bonefish on a pink clouser. My number one searching/deep water pattern on the flats.
JB Pipes says
Spot on tying instructions and great photography.
When starting the thread, I make a base wrap all the way to the bend of the hook. After tying in the first wing, I lift up the wing and make three wraps of thread underneath the wing. I feel these two additions help with preventing the wing from fouling on the hook bend.
UV cure cement can be applied to the wing shell to prevent the hair from developing a butch haircut.
Kyle Shea says
Great tips JB! We appreciate the kind words. Thanks for sharing!
Jared says
Hi. I needed to use this cite to research a fly for a school project. I really like the cite so far and just thought that I would let you know that. One think that i like about this cite is that when it asked if i wanted updates, it wasn’t all in my face (though it did take up some space) and it felt like someone was asking me, instead of a company looking to make money. I really liked that. Again thanks, and good job.
Kyle Shea says
Thanks Jared. Happy to hear you’re enjoying the content, and glad we could be of some help. Have fun out there!
Paul Tate. says
Great pictures and nicely explained technique, thank you.
Don Avondolio says
Add some flash to top wing; same color. Adds another attraction.