A second installation in our sinktip strategies novella, here’s a looping method that began as what Alaska West guide Jeff Hickman dubbed a ‘bush fix,’ and has since become one of the two main ways we’re custom building on-the-river sinktips to suit the current conditions.
First off, get yourself about 40 feet of Rio’s T-whatever. It’s all good, as are Airflo’s 20’ Custom Cut Sinktips, which might be even better given the placement of welded loops on each end of the 20-foot chunk. Put either in a baggie, inside your fishing kit. That way, it’s ready when you are.
Once on the river, determine the sinktip length based on your wingspan. We’re serious here. If you’re about 6’ tall, stringing out a section between your outstretched arms should get you roughly 6’ of T-whatever. Do this twice and you have a 12’ tip, a decent place to start. Add about 3 inches on each end to compensate for the loop and cut with your nipper.
Then, grab your nailknot tool. On one end, double the sinktip back on itself 3 inches. With 20-lb Maxima, place one nailknot at the sinktip’s end, then another toward the top of this new loop. You want the final homemade loop to mimic the size of a normal welded loop, about ½ an inch. Do this on the other end, as well (if using Rio material, as Airflo’s Custom Cut will already have a welded loop on one end).
From there, use Aquaseal, Loon’s UV Knot-Sense, Zap-a-Gap or in a pinch, some nailpolish to lock down the nailknots. In fact, with colored nail polish, you can even color code the loops for quick reference when carrying multiple sections of T-11, T-14 and T-17. (We’re even told Rajeff Sports might have some T-24 laying around, but at this point, that’s just a wild, very heavy rumor.)
Then, loop it on and go fishing – without fear, as we’ve never had this system fail.
Is there any point in taking the trouble to make welded loops? I have wondered about this a lot and have long been on the look-out for a heat gun with a narrow nozzle. Then, there is always the question of whether or not the loop will be strong enough. I suppose I would want to add a couple of nail knots anyways, so is it worth it?
Actually, the real problem is that I built my best spey rod with ceramic guides which are a bit on the small side. I actually snapped a tip section on it by trying to jerk through a tight loop connection.
Hi Louis,
Thanks very much for getting in touch with us, we appreciate it. We think making your own loops is a great practice but there are a couple of options you can consider. First, recognize the size fish you’ll be targeting – smaller species aren’t going to stress your loops as much as say, King salmon on the Kanektok or large trophy rainbow trout on the Naknek. Secondly, consider a new fly line – most all of the fly line manufactures are making great products and it’s been our experience factory welded loops hold up throughout the life of the fly line. There are certainly exceptions and mishaps but for the most part, fly line manufactures are making very strong loops. And lastly, because your ceramic guides are small, maybe revert back to nail knotting a heavy butt section of monofilament. Before loops were a thing, nail knotting a butt section to your fly line was a common practice and it offers a very small diameter connection.
We hope this is helpful Louis but please be sure to let us know if you have any other questions.
Thanks again for being in touch and keep having fun out there!
Our best,
The Deneki Team
P.S. You bet, be sure to use nail knots on your braided loops, at least two if not three knots.