Bruce Chard teaches bonefishing schools at Andros South – but even though he’s a master bonefish angler, he always takes some time to throw flies at South Andros Island’s incredible population of barracudas.
When Bruce has ‘cudas on the brain, this is the rig that he reaches for.
The Summary
- Ross FW 1090 – 9 foot 10 weight
- 10 weight Bruce Chard Teeny Professional Permit Line. “This line is designed with an extreme short front taper for heavy flies like we throw at ‘cudas.”
- Ross Momentum LT #5
The Detail
- 30 pound dacron backing tied to the spool with an arbor knot
- Double bimini loop tied in the front end of the backing
- Fly line attached to the backing using a loop to loop connection, and a loop whipped in the back end of the fly line using tying thread, sealed with super glue
- 5 feet of 50 pound Seaguar Fluorocarbon, attached to the fly line with a loop to loop connection, a perfection loop in the fluorocarbon and a whipped loop on the front end of the fly line
- 3 feet of 30 pound Rio Alloy Hard Mono, tied to the fluorocarbon butt section with a blood knot. “I use 4 turns on the 50 pound, and 5 turns on the 30 pound. Lots of lubrication is key.”
- 18 inches of 30 pound Tyger Wire tied to the 30 pound with an Albright knot
- Big pearl and blue ‘cuda streamer tied to the Tyger Wire using the special knot described below
The Commentary
- “I think this is the best knot for tying on a fly with coated wire, but I don’t even know if it has a name! I learned it from Barry Reynolds. Tie an overhand knot near the end of the wire. Pull it tight. Cut off the tag, right to the end of the knot, leaving a little nub on the end of the wire. Tie another overhand knot a couple inches up from the nub, but don’t pull it tight. Go through the eye of the hook with the nub, and then back through the second overhand knot that’s not cinched down. Now cinch down the second overhand knot. Then pull hard on the line and the two knots will jam together. It’s simple and super strong.”
- “I like to use a pearl and blue flashabou streamer with a single hook, but it must be tied with the book in the center of the fly. When ‘cudas chase down bait, they almost always attack the bait in the middle to cut it in half. After they cut it in half, they turn around and eat the other half. If you fish a fly or a lure only with a hook on the very back, you’ll miss a large number of strikes. If you fish a fly or lure with hooks in the middle and on the back, you’ll have a much higher hookup ratio – and 90% of the time he’s hooked on the middle hook. To get a single hook near the middle of the fly, you need to use a giant hook with a large gap. I like the 6/0 Owner Aki, which has a longer shank. That allows me to tie a 6″ long fly with the hook still close to the center.”
Andrew McFerron says
Nice write up! I regards to the knot used with wire, it sounds identical to an Arbor Knot but around the hook eye rather than the arbor of a reel. Perhaps? 🙂
andrew says
Thanks Andrew. I think you have a very good point there…
Mike Novo says
http://frontrangeanglers.com/newsletter/april05/loopknot.htm
here is the knot Bruce is referring to…
Willi says
You have picture of the flashabou fly?
Jeff says
use this knot instead of the arbor knot. hasn’t failed me yet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oTqjLB7VAY